Login Register Cart 0
Generic placeholder image

Current Green Chemistry

Editor-in-Chief

ISSN (Print): 2213-3461
ISSN (Online): 2213-347X

Back
Journal Home About Journal Editorial Board Journal Insight Current Issue Volumes/Issues
Subscribe
Research Article

Going Green for Blue - An Indigo Approach

Author(s): Srivani Thadepalli* and Sundarvel Amsamani

Volume 11, Issue 1, 2024

Published on: 19 July, 2023

Page: [63 - 74] Pages: 12

DOI: 10.2174/2213346110666230605120649

Price: $65

Abstract

Introduction: Dominating use of chemical processes for reducing indigo at several small-scale production houses formed the ground for initiating this study. Conventional textile processing hubs still use sodium hydrosulphite as a reducing agent irrespective of the source of indigo, whether natural or synthetic ignoring the unfavourable consequences of their disposal and elimination from effluent.

Methods: The paper addresses the critical environmental issues related to the conventional reduction of indigo and studies already undertaken. It examines the indigo dyeing process of cotton using natural, chemical and eco-friendly reducing agents in combination with calcium hydroxide for a comparative study. Identification of natural indigo through High-Performance Liquid Chromatography was undertaken for further experimentation. Under specific parameters, the study examined the effect of Thiourea dioxide and natural reducing agents in indigo dyeing replacing Sodium hydrosulphite. The difference in weight, strength, and colour parameters such as K/S (HUNTERLAB), CIELab values and colourfastness are measured. The experimental results showed weight gain in all fabrics after indigo dyeing. There is a decrease in weft strength only in tamarind, iron, jaggery and dextrose vats. Iron vat showed a higher colour yield out of all reducing agents due to forming metal complexes with the cotton fabric, which influenced colour depth and highest relative colour strength % (114.11) and ΔC (8.48).

Results: Thiourea dioxide showed the next highest relative colour strength % (96.59) and lowest ΔH values (8.54) concerning the values of the hydro process. Structural changes of fiber were studied by using SEM (Scanning Electron Microscope) after using different reducing agents, which revealed superior surface topography of samples dyed using thiox. The colour difference showed no significant effect on the colourfastness of alternative reducing agents.

Conclusion: Thiox can be a perfect substitution for hydro in indigo dyeing as it was found practical and feasible for implementation even by small-scale units in India.

Keywords: Indigo dyeing, natural reducing agents, eco-friendly reduction, identification of natural indigo, thiourea dioxide, spectrophotometer.

« Previous Next »
Graphical Abstract

[1]
Steingruber, E. Indigo and indigo colourants; Ullmann’s Encyclopaedia of Industrial Chemistry.Frankenthal, Germany; , 2004, 19, pp. 56-63.
[2]
Uzramma, A future vision for natural dyeing in India, ST-Natural Dyes , 2001. Available from: https://kalpavriksh.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Natural-Dyeing-paper-December-2001.pdf
[3]
Speranza, J.; Miceli, N.; Taviano, M.F.; Ragusa, S.; Kwiecień, I.; Szopa, A.; Ekiert, H.; Isatis tinctoria, L. (Woad): A review of its botany, ethnobotanical uses, phytochemistry, biological activities, and biotechnological studies. Plants, 2020, 9(3), 298.
[4]
Roessler, A.; Jin, X. State of the art technologies and new electrochemical methods for the reduction of vat dyes. Dyes Pigments, 2003, 59(3), 223-235.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0143-7208(03)00108-6]
[5]
Reports, G. Global indigo dyes market expected to reach USD 1,639 million by 2028, growth market reports Available from: https://growthmarketreports.com/press-release/global-indigo-dyes-market-expected-to-reach-usd-1639-million-by-2028 [Accessed on: May 8, 2022].
[6]
Chemical properties of indigo, In Wikipedia; Available from: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indigo_dye#Chemical_properties [Accessed on: May 2022].
[7]
Komboonchoo, S.; Turcanu, A.; Bechtold, T. The reduction of dispersed indigo by cathodically formed 1,2,4-trihydroxynaphthalene. Dyes Pigments, 2009, 83(1), 21-30.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.dyepig.2009.03.008]
[8]
Lopa, P.; Satya, N.N.; Hariprasad, P.; Susant, K.P. Influence of various oxidation parameter(s) for natural indigo dye formation from Indigofera tinctoria L. biomass. Environ. probl., 2021, 4, 100157.
[9]
Bhosale, N.; Jadhav, B. Sustainability in Indigo Dyeing; Texnote, 2014. Available from: http://texnote.blogspot.com/2014/06/sustainability-in-indigo-dyeing.html [Accessed on: May 17, 2022].
[10]
Choi, K-Y. A review of recent progress in the synthesis of bio-indigoids and their biologically assisted end-use applications. Dyes Pigm., 2020, 181, 108570.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.dyepig.2020.108570]
[11]
Saikhao, L.; Setthayanond, J.; Karpkird, T.; Bechtold, T.; Suwanruji, P. Green reducing agents for indigo dyeing on cotton fabrics. J. Clean. Prod., 2018, 197(Part 1), 106-113.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.06.199]
[12]
Choi, H.S.; Kim, M.K.; Park, H.S.; Kim, Y.S.; Shin, D.H. Alcoholic fermentation of Bokbunja (Rubus coreanus Miq.) wine. J. Food Sci. Technol., 2006, 38, 543-547.
[13]
The MAIWA BLOG. Natural Dyes - Indigo, the Fruit Vat, The Maiwa Guide to Natural Dyes, Available from: http://maiwahandprints.blogspot.com/2013/08/natural-dyes-indigo-fruit-vat.html [Accessed on: April 8, 2022].
[14]
Semet, B.; Sackingen, B.; Gurninger, G. Application of Fe II complex for vat dye reduction. Melliand Textilberichte, 1995, 76, 161-170.
[15]
Chavan, R.B.; Chakraborty, J.N. Alternative reducing systems based on Iron (II) complexes for the dyeing of cotton with vat dyes. International Textile Symposium, Natal, Brazil2000.
[16]
Blackburn, R.S.; Bechtold, T.; John, P. The development of indigo reduction methods and pre-reduced indigo products. Color. Technol., 2009, 125(4), 193-207.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1478-4408.2009.00197.x]
[17]
Yi, C.; Tan, X.; Bie, B.; Ma, H.; Yi, H. Practical and environment-friendly indirect electrochemical reduction of indigo and dyeing. Sci. Rep., 2020, 10(1), 4927.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1038/s41598-020-61795-5] [PMID: 32188868]
[18]
Yadav, R.; Bhattacharyya, N. Substitution of hydrosulphite in natural indigo dyeing using natural ingredients. Colourage, 2005, 52(6), 49-54.
[19]
Rekha, R.; Taroporewala, K. S. Eco friendly alternative to reducing agents used for Vat dyeing on cellulose and polyester/cellulose blends (Part-III) Man-Made Text. India., 2002, 45(4), 127-132.
[20]
Chavan, R.B. Indigo dye and reduction techniques, Denim Manufacture, Finishing and Applications; Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles: Cambridge, 2015, pp. 37-67.
[21]
Mojca, B.; Vanja, K. Indigo dyeing of polyamide using enzymes for dye reduction. Text. Res. J., 2009, 79(10), 895-907.
[22]
Padden, A.N.; John, P.; Collins, M.D.; Hutson, R.; Hall, A.R. Indigo-reducing Clostridium Isatidis Isolated from a variety of Sources, including a 10th-Century Viking Dye Vat, Archaeol. J. Sci., 2000, 27(10), 953-956.
[23]
Kavyashree, M. A Global Sustainable Approach. In: Chemistry and Technology of Natural and Synthetic Dyes and Pigments; Samanta, A.K.; Awwad, N.S.; Algarni, H.M., Eds.; Available from.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.93161]
[24]
American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists. The application of vat dyes. AATCC Monograph, 1953, (2), 230.
[25]
Nakagawa, K.; Takeuchi, M.; Kikuchi, M.; Kiyofuji, S.; Kugo, M.; Sakamoto, T. Mechanistic insights into indigo reduction in indigo fermentation: A voltametric study. Electrochemistry , 2021, 89, 25-30.
[26]
Wenner, N. The production of indigo dye from plants. Fibershed; , 2017. Available from: https://www.scribd.com/document/519552134/The-Production-of-Indigo-Dye-From-Plants-PDFDrive# (Accessed on: on Jan 2 2022)
[27]
Lohtander, T.; Durandin, N.; Laaksonen, T.; Arola, S.; Laaksonen, P. Stabilization of natural and synthetic indigo on nanocellulose network - Towards bioactive materials and facile dyeing processes. J. Clean. Prod., 2021, 328, 129615.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2021.129615]
[28]
Nair, G.P.; Shah, R.C. Sodium borohydride in vat dyeing. Text. Res. J., 1970, 40(4), 303-312.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/004051757004000402]
[29]
Chakraborty, J.N.; Chavan, R.B. Dyeing of denim with indigo. Indian J. Fibre Text. Res., 2004, 39, 100-109.
[30]
Makarov, S.V. Recent trends in the chemistry of sulfur-containing reducing agents. Russ. Chem. Rev., 2001, 70(10), 885-895.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1070/RC2001v070n10ABEH000659]
[31]
Shanti, P. A study on the effect of reducing agents on reduction potential of vat dyeing on cotton fabric. Paripex Indian J. Res., 2015, 4(6), 388-389.
[32]
Sadauskas, M. Statkevičiūtė, R.; Vaitekūnas, J.; Petkevičius, V.; Časaitė, V.; Gasparavičiūtė, R.; Meškys, R. Enzymatic synthesis of novel water-soluble indigoid compounds. Dyes Pigments, 2020, 173, 107882.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.dyepig.2019.107882]
[33]
Bechtold, T.; Burtscher, E.; Turcanu, A.; Berktold, F. Electrochemistry in the dyeing of vat and sulphur dyes, Melliand Textilberichte –. International Textile Report, 2000, 81(3), 195-198.
[34]
Schlomski, I.; Karl, M. Eco-friendly indigo dyeing technology; Textile Magazine, 2022. Available from: https://www.karlmayer.com/en/sustainable-denim [Accessed on: May 14, 2022].
[35]
Judith McKenzie McCuin. Directions for Instant Indigo, Available from: https://web.archive.org/web/20041116195957/http://paradisefibers.com/instantindigo.htm [Accessed on: June 6, 2022].
[36]
Roessler, A.; Dossenbach, O.; Marte, W.; Rys, P. Direct electrochemical reduction of indigo: Process optimization and scale-up in a flow cell. J. Appl. Electrochem., 2002, 32(6), 647-651.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1023/A:1020198116170]
[37]
Raghunathan, U.S. An Innovative Method to Reduce VAT Dyes Electrolytically by Avoiding Toxic Sodium Hydrosulfite; California State Science Fair, 2005.
[38]
Schrott, W. Electro chemical dyeing. Text. Asia, 2004, 35(2), 45-47.
[39]
Roessler, A.; Dossenbach, O.; Rys, P. Electrocatalytic hydrogenation of Indigo. Process optimization and scale-up in a flow- cell. J. Electrochem. Soc., 2003, 150(1), D1-D5.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1149/1.1521757]
[40]
Albert, R. Xiunan, State of the art technologies and new electrochemical methods for the reduction of vat dyes. J. Dyes. Pigm., 2003, 59(3), 223-235.
[41]
Indigo Dye. Organic, Natural synthetic & Complete synthetic indigo dye. Available from: https://ecofabstories.blogspot.com/2018/12/indigo-dye-organic-natural-chemical.html (Accessed Apr 3, 2022).
[42]
Swan, L.J. Pollution prevention in textile industries. In: Industrial Pollution Prevention Handbook, 22nd ed.; Freeman H.M. EPA, USA,McGraw-Hill, Inc.: Snowden, New York, 1995; pp. 1090-1095.
[43]
Khan, M.R.; Uddin, Z.; Hossain, D. Eco-sustainable process development for indigo dye by using natural reducing agents. Middle East J. Sci. Res., 2014, 22(7), 1090-1095.
[44]
Auxiliaries contained in dye formulations; EU Commission IPPC, BAT, 2003, pp. 81-85.
[45]
Roessler, A.; Crettenand, D. Direct electrochemical reduction of vat dyes in a fixed bed of graphite granules. Dyes Pigments, 2004, 63(1), 29-37.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.dyepig.2004.01.005]
[46]
Camacho, F.; Páez, M.P.; Jiménez, M.C.; Fernández, M. Application of the sodium dithionite oxidation to measure oxygen transfer parameters. Chem. Eng. Sci., 1997, 52(8), 1387-1391.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0009-2509(96)00497-6]
[47]
Sadov, F. Dyeing of cotton with vat dyes. In: Chemical Technology of Fibrous Materials; Mir Publisher: Moscow, 1978; pp. 425-450.
[48]
Etters, J.N. Efficient use of sodium hydrosulfite in commercial vat dyeing processes. Am. Dyest. Report., 1989, 78, 18-26.
[49]
Kulandainathan, M.A.; Patil, K.; Muthukumaran, A.; Chavan, R.B. Review of the process development aspects of electrochemical dyeing: Its impact and commercial applications. Color. Technol., 2007, 123(3), 143-151.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1478-4408.2007.00082.x]
[50]
Božič, M.; Kokol, V. Ecological alternatives to the reduction and oxidation processes in dyeing with vat and sulphur dyes. Dyes Pigments, 2008, 76(2), 299-309.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.dyepig.2006.05.041]
[51]
Luo, Q.; Ren, T.; Shen, H.; Liang, D.; Zhang, J. Comparison of thermal hazards of sodium dithionite and thiourea dioxide from thermal analysis (DSC-TG), small-scale self-heating experiments and FTIR smoke gas analysis. Fire Saf. J., 2017, 92, 91-97.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.firesaf.2017.06.005]
[52]
Guanlei, G. Why people choose Thiourea Dioxide (TDO) to replace sodium hydrosulfite in textile and paper industry? 2017. Available from: https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/why-people-choose-thiourea-dioxidetdo-replace-sodium-hydrosulfite [Accessed on: Mar 12, 2022].
[53]
Meksi, N.; Ben Ticha, M.; Kechida, M.; Mhenni, M.F. Using of ecofriendly α-hydroxycarbonyls as reducing agents to replace sodium dithionite in indigo dyeing processes. J. Clean. Prod., 2012, 24, 149-158.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2011.11.062]
[54]
Bechtold, T.; Turcanu, A. Electrochemical reduction in vat dyeing: Greener chemistry replaces traditional processes. J. Clean. Prod., 2009, 17(18), 1669-1679.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2009.08.004]
[55]
Bhattacharya, S.D.; Shah, A.K. Metal ion effect on dyeing of wool fabric with catechu. Color. Technol., 2000, 116(1), 10-12.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1478-4408.2000.tb00002.x]
[56]
Harish Nayaka, M.A.; Vinutha, C.; Sudarshan, S.; Manohar, M.P. Physico-chemical, antioxidant and sensory attributes of ginger (Zingiber officinale) enriched jaggery of different sugarcane varieties. Sugar Tech, 2015, 17(3), 305-313.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s12355-014-0328-z]
[57]
What is Delta E? And why is it important for color accuracy? 2021. Available from: https://www.viewsonic.com/library/creative-work/what-is-delta-e-and-why-is-it-important-for-color- accuracy/ [Accessed on: April 23, 2022].
[58]
Color differences & tolerances: Commercial color acceptability. 2013. Available from: https://industrial.datacolor.com/support/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Color-Differences-Tolerances.pdf [Accessed on: May 24, 2022].
[59]
Zayedul Hasan, A.K.M.A.H.A.; Abdur, R.; Rakibul, H.; Sudip, S.; Omar, F. An experimental investigation of different washing processes on various properties of stretch denim fabric. J. Chem. Eng. Mater. Sci., 2021, 9(1), 1-15.
[60]
Shin, Y.; Choi, M.; Yoo, D.I. Utilization of fruit by-products for organic reducing agent in indigo dyeing. Fibers Polym., 2013, 14(12), 2027-2031.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s12221-013-2027-x]
[61]
Son, K.H.; Shin, Y-S.; Yoo, D-I. Optimization of cellulose dyeing with natural indigo: Ramie dyeing by one-step reduction/dyeing process. J. Korean Soc. Cloth. Ind., 2011, 13(2), 263-268.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.2.263]
[62]
Viashnavi, U.; Mutnuri, S. Comparative study of the production of bio-indigo by Pandoraea sp. in a two-phase – fed-batch and continuous bioreactor. Appl. Sci. Innovat. Pvt. Ltd., India, Carbon- Sci. Technol., 2016, 8, 40-46.
[63]
Athalye, A. Enzymatic desizing for effective processing, 2020. Available from: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/340806778 [Accessed on: Feb 22, 2022].
[64]
Organic, I.D.R.; Process, E.S. Natural Dyes posted on; Eri Silk, Natural Dyes, 2020. Available from: https://www.muezart.com/blogs/muezart-musings/how-to-dye-with-natural-indigo-organic-indigo-dyeing [Accessed on: June 15, 2022].
[65]
Organic Indigo Vat 1-2-3., Slow Fiber Studios. 2019. Available from: https://slowfiberstudios.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/YIW-TE-REF-1-2-3-Organic-Indigo-Vat.pdf [Accessed on: June 15, 2022]
[66]
Ben, T.; Meksi, N.; Drira, N.; Kechida, M.; Mhenni, M. The synergetic effect of α-hydroxycarbonyls mixtures used as green reducing agent on the indigo dyeing process. Chem. Ind. Chem. Eng. Q., 2014, 20(4), 463-470.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.2298/CICEQ130507028B]
[67]
Xin, J.H.; Chong, C.L.; Tu, T. Colour variation in the dyeing of denim yarn with indigo. Color. Technol., 2000, 116(9), 260-265.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1478-4408.2000.tb00044.x]
[68]
How to make A 1-2-3 Iron Indigo Vat? Botanical Colours. 2018. Available from: https://botanicalcolors.com/iron-indigo-vat/ [Accessed on: Feb 15, 2022].
[69]
Lai, C.C.; Chang, C.E. A study on sustainable design for indigo dyeing- colour in the visual aspect of clothing. Sustainability, 2021, 13(7), 3686.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/su13073686]
[70]
Gangakhedkar, N.S. Part II: Colour measurement and its applications. In: Colour Measurement: Principles, Advances and Industrial Applications, Manchester; Gularajani, M.L., Ed.; Woodhead Publishing: UK, 2010; pp. 219-252.
[71]
Abstracts from English and foreign journals, JSDC, 103, January. 1987.
[72]
Emil, W. Progress in Optics; North Holland Pub. Company, 1961, p. 1.

Rights & Permissions Print Cite
Article Metrics
15
3
Wayfinder Image
© 2024 Bentham Science Publishers | Privacy Policy